Monday, March 21, 2005

Recipe: Tommy J’s definitely not Hungarian Chicken Goulash

So I opened a can of peas by mistake. Couldn’t use them that night, so they sat in the fridge and stared at me every time I opened the door. Until they ended up sitting next to a tub of soured cream, and well, one thing led to another . . .

here's what you'll need for two big servings. . .

1 large boneless, skinless chicken breast or 4 to 6 chicken ‘tenders’
1 can peas
onion
red bell pepper
garlic
mushrooms
Louisiana Hot Sauce
dried thyme
dried rosemary
paprika
fresh ground Tellicherry
soured cream
wide egg noodles
butter
olive oil

Chicken Goulash ingredients

Here's how you do it.

Cube the chicken and massage it with the hot sauce. As I was making this up, I first planned on using SriRacha for the ‘heat’, but maybe that would have been a little too much or too ‘hard’ a heat. Then I thought about Tabasco, but that seemed too ‘pointy.’ sort of a needle-like heat. But then the old stand-by came to mind – Louisiana Hot Sauce – and it just seemed to work perfectly with the piquant pungency of the paprika. So rub it in and let the chicken sit until you get everything else ready (30 minutes or so).

Don’t drain the peas! Instead, season them with some dried thyme and rosemary. Crush about 1/3 tsp. of each in the palm of your hand and toss it into the liquid. Let the seasoned peas, like the chicken, sit for 30 minutes.

Put a pot of water on the stove and crank up the heat. By the time you get the rest of this stuff prepped, the water will be ready to cook your pasta.

I had some little bits of red onion leftover, so I chopped them up. But that didn’t look like enough, so I added about 2/3 of a yellow onion, sliced paper thin. Yeah, that’s about right . . Chop up the red bell pepper; I used about 1/3 of a large one. Chop the garlic. That’s two good-sized cloves, coarsely chopped. And, hey, mushrooms go with everything!

And to provide a cool, crunchy contrast to the goulash, toss together some iceberg lettuce and tomatoes to go with your favorite Ranch dressing.

Now that you can pay attention to the timing, your pot of water should be boiling, so cook up some wide egg noodles. Don’t let them cook for more than 5 minutes! Then drain them, give them a quick rinse under cold water, and back into the still warm pot. Add a Tbsp. or so of butter, stir to coat the noodles and then cover the pot to keep them warm.

Next, remove your skillet from its burner and turn the burner up to medium high (about 3 o’clock on my stove knobs). You don’t want to heat empty non-stick pans that hot – the heat will break down the coating and food will stick forevermore. But you will want to seal the chicken quickly so it will stay tender on the inside while you get it nicely browned on the outside.

So, when the burner is nice and hot, put the skillet on, count to 3, add a couple Tbsp. of olive oil, turn on the exhaust fan, and toss in the chicken. Swirl, toss, flip, and otherwise keep your chicken moving until it’s all nicely sealed. If the heat is right, it should take less than 2 minutes.

seal the chicken

As soon as the chicken is sealed, lift the pan off the burner, reduce the heat to medium low (about 7 o’clock), count to 17, put the skillet back on the burner and cook the chicken until it’s brown. Probably another 4 to 6 minutes.

brown the chicken

When the chicken is browned, remove it from the pan and set it aside until you get the sauce prepared. Try to leave all the oil in the skillet.

Now, put the skillet back on the burner, crank the heat up again (to about 4 o’clock this time), count to 5 and add the onions. Sauté for exactly one minute.

Add the peppers; sauté 1 minute.

Add the mushrooms; sauté 2 or 3 minutes, just until they begin to change color.

Add the garlic; sauté 1 minute.

Grind fresh Tellicherry all over everything. Stir it all around. Deglaze with white wine (that just means pour a goodly slug of wine into the hot skillet). Let it sizzle until half the wine is gone.

Add the peas and all the seasoned liquid, and swirl it all around until it comes back to a lively simmer.

Add about 3 Tbps. of soured cream and stir to mix thoroughly.

sauce underway

Return the sauce to a gentle simmer, reducing the heat to about 8 or even 9 o’clock on the knob. When the simmering has started, add the first dose of paprika. I just sprinkle my paprika on until it ‘looks right.’ In this case, I’d say I used about 2 Tbsp. It’s a pretty hefty dose.

And speaking of paprika, there are lots of different paprikas out there. Sweet, sour, half-sharp, and probably 27 others I’ve never heard of. I find I really like the flavor of the garden variety McCormick’s brand. Not too sharp, not too sweet, works well with other flavors but holds its own taste when cooked. So I buy it by the barrel and sprinkle it on everything. Your mileage may vary . . . But if you don’t like one brand, do try another and keep trying until you find the one(s) that work(s) for your taste.

add first paprika

OK. Keep that gentle simmer going until the volume of your sauce has been reduced by half. That may take from 5 to 7 or 8 minutes, so stir everything around every minute or two to help the sauce ‘become one.’ Don’t let it boil or your sauce will at least separate, maybe burn.

When the volume is down and the sauce is ‘one,’ add the chicken and more paprika. This time, I used less, maybe a couple of tsps. Once again, I just sprinkle until it looks right.

add chicken and more paprika

Cook a while. I don’t know. Until it’s ‘done.’ You want the chicken to get heated all the way through. You want the paprika flavors to have time to permeate the sauce. You want some of the ‘hot’ from the Louisiana Hot Sauce to wander through the dish. Give it 10 to 15 minutes or so; more than 20 or 25 would probably be a bad idea – too much liquid would evaporate.

cook for a while

When it’s ‘done,’ make noodle ring,

noodle ring

fill it with goulash,

Chicken Goulash

and enjoy! Serve it up with your lettuce and tomato salad and maybe some crispy rye toast or crunchy French bread . . .

Sunday, March 13, 2005

Recipe: Chicken Jambalaya

The secret to this dish is our old favorite, Louisiana Hot Sauce (manufactured by Bruce Foods Corporation, New Iberia, LA.) In fact, we discovered this hot sauce during my first experiments with jambalaya, many years ago. As I’ve said before, there are other hot sauces of this type on the market, but this is the only one with the 'right' flavor, and the only one you can use in large enough quantities to 'do' the dish without destroying the palette.

Jambalayas are just nice mixtures of rice, tomatoes, meat(s), and anything else you'd like to throw in to make it interesting. The traditional recipes call for chicken, ham, rice, onion, tomato and spices. I like to add some mushrooms, garlic, red and green sweet peppers, carrots, ripe olives, and, of course, anything else that's hanging around in the refrigerator that needs to be used up. My problem used to be finding a skillet large enough to hold it all, but now, thanks again to Eric, that’s no trouble at all!

Serve it with crunchy French bread and a tossed green salad with a cool, mild dressing.

To build a batch big enough to serve 4 (or to serve two twice),

here's what you'll need . . .

2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 medium onion (bigger than a golf ball, smaller than a tennis ball)
1 cup uncooked long grain white rice
2 or 3 cans tomatoes
2 - 4 cups 'liquid' (water, chicken stock, juice from tomatoes, white wine, whatever you like)
¼ cup (or more or less) Louisiana Hot Sauce
olive oil
fresh, coarsely ground black pepper (Tellicherry, of course!)

Optional ingredients include:
cooked ham (about ½ cup cubed)
red and/or green peppers (about ½ cup total, chunked or chopped)
fresh mushrooms (about 6 medium sized, chunked or thick sliced or chopped or any combination of the above)
1 medium sized fresh carrot (thin sliced half-rounds or chopped any way you like)
1 stalk celery (chopped or sliced)
1 or 2 medium sized cloves of garlic (minced)
12 ripe olives (halved or quartered)
6 to 12 strands of spaghetti (broken into 1" pieces)
1 or 2 bay leaves
pinches of thyme, oregano, basil (today’s batch uses oregano and cilantro)
1 small jalapeno pepper (skinned and de-seeded, or canned), diced, sliced, or chopped

Jambalaya ingredients

Here's how you do it.

Cube the chicken into pretty good-sized hunks. We usually get about 25 - 30 pieces out of two breasts. (If you're adding ham, get it cut up now as well). Set aside on a plate (and grind some black pepper on the chicken cubes, if you like).

Chop the onion and any of the other vegetables you're planning to include. Set aside (in neat little piles, of course) on a plate. Mince the garlic, break the spaghetti, and set out the bay leaves and spices, if you're planning on using them.

(If you're stuck with an electric stove, as I am, now is a good time to start heating your skillet.)

Open the tomatoes and drain the liquid into a measuring cup. Add a slug of white wine or any of the other liquids you want to use to the measuring cup. Then fill it up to two or three cups (or so, different batches of rice require a little more or a little less liquid) with water.

You'll need a large deep skillet - at least 12" (14" or 16" would be better, but they don't seem to sell them at WalMart), or a fancy Le Creuset like the one Eric gave me, or a Dutch oven or a . . . Get the pan hot (about ‘4 o’clock’ on my stove's dial), add about 2 Tbsp. olive oil, swirl a couple of times till you can smell the oil's aroma and toss in the chicken. Shake, toss, flip, turn or otherwise keep the chicken in motion until it is sealed on all sides. You can either keep it moving until it's lightly browned or turn the heat down a notch so you can leave it for a minute or three to clean up the mess you've made so far. (Since the ham is already cooked, you can add it later.)

Sealing the chicken

Now, if you want your chicken 'hot' rather than only having the dish 'hot', this is the time to add the first slugs of Louisiana Hot Sauce. I don't usually measure out the hot sauce before cooking the dish. I just give the bottle a few judicious shakes from time to time. At this stage, add about 3 or 4 good solid shakes to make the chicken ‘hot’; otherwise, you can wait and add all the hot sauce later, after you get the liquid in.

Slightly browned, first sauce

When the chicken is about half way to lightly browned, toss in the vegetables (and if you turned the heat down above, turn it back up now - you'll need it.) Start with carrots, if you're using them; then onions; then mushrooms and peppers; then garlic, jalapenos, olives (and anything else you might have found lying around). The idea is to have all this stuff 'cooked' by the time the chicken is nicely browned.

Add the veggies

There should be plenty of oil/chicken grease left in the pan for the next part, but if not, you can add another Tbsp. of olive oil and you probably want to push the chicken and vegetable mix over to the sides of the pan to give yourself some room. If you're using spaghetti, it goes in next. You want to brown the pasta in the hot oil.

Brown the pasta

Then toss in the rice and stir it around for a minute or four until every last grain is thoroughly coated with oil. You don't want the rice to start browning, but you do want it to start cooking, so keep it moving. If you're a time-control freak, the rice should be stirred around continuously for at least 5 minutes, but no more than 8 minutes.

Add the rice

When you're sick of coating/cooking the rice, stir everything together until is is nicely mixed. Add the tomatoes and kind of chop them up with the edge of your spatula (you want chunks, not mush). When everything's nicely mixed, swirl, shake, jiggle, flip and/or stir the whole mess for about 3 or 4 minutes. On the last swirl, jiggle, or flip, add the bay leaf and move it around enough to get it moist.

Add tomatoes

If you're using the spices, they can be tossed in now. And, if you did not grind black pepper all over the chicken while it was sitting on the plate earlier, grind it all over everything now.

Add herbs and spices

Now, pour in the liquid and stir everything all around until it's thoroughly mixed. If you've kept the pan hot enough, the whole mess should be bubbling by the time you've got everything mixed up.

Add liquids

Now add the remaining hot sauce (or all of it if you didn't put any in earlier) and stir it in a couple of times. I usually add between 12 and 20 good 'splooshes' at this point (in addition to the 3 or 5 or 6 I added earlier). You'll have to experiment to find the right amount for your own taste. (If you like Old El Paso Thick and Chunky Salsa in the mild version, go for 12. If you like the medium version, go for 20. If you like the hot version, you're on your own!) When I started, this 12 oz. bottle of hot sauce was unopened . . .

Hot sauce bottle after

Now reduce the heat to low and cook the mess for at least an hour. You want it to be bubbling gently, not frothing all over the stove and not just sitting there with a little steam rising. Depending on atmospheric pressure, barometric readings, humidity, the month of the year in which your rice was harvested and the phase of the moon, the cooking time in the skillet can range from 1 to 2 hours.

Jambalaya bubbling

When all the free liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender (yes, you'll have to try a spoonful to tell), then it's time to preheat the oven to about 375° F or so, set the table, put out the salad and dressing and get ready to eat. You're about 10 minutes away (depending on how fast your oven preheats!)

Jambalaya ready for the oven

Stick the pan full of Jambalaya into the oven (uncovered) to 'dry out' for a few minutes. (Or, if your pan isn’t oven safe, put a little olive oil in the bottom of a baking dish to keep the Jambalaya from sticking, and transfer the contents of the skillet to the baking dish.) Stick the French bread in the oven at the same time. In about 5 to 10 minutes the Jambalaya should be ready for the table, the French bread should be crunchy, the salad and dressing should be at perfect serving temperature, and it's time to PIG OUT!

Jambalaya served!

Tuesday, March 08, 2005

Technique: Coring Iceberg Lettuce

Yeah, yeah, I know. Like chopping onions. Everybody already knows how to do this. Unless, of course, you don’t . . .

First, open the plastic wrapper. For years, I tried to figure out how to unwrap one of these things. But every time I got close to the secret, the lettuce barons changed their approach. So, don’t pull, or twist, or slide your fingers underneath. Just grab a pair of scissors, and whack off the top (bottom?) of that plastic. Remove the head of lettuce.

Save the wrapper!! If it’s dirty (on the inside), give it a rinse and a rub to get the dirt off, then let it drain. Then, line it with a paper towel.

Cut open the lettuce wrapper

Now give that lettuce a good long rinse under cold running water. Maybe even gently rub your hands around the outer surface and let any loosely wrapped leaves just fall off. When your head is pristine, set it, core side down, in the sink or on the counter, to drain for five minutes or so.

Wash your head

While the head drains, seek out ‘the sturdy spot’ near your sink, or along your countertop. You want the place that is supported by an upright 2x4.

Got it?

OK. Pick up the lettuce, and smash it, core side down, onto that sturdy point.

Smash your head

Voila. The core has popped loose. Give it a twist, and yank it out.

Yank your core

Place your head (lettuce, that is) into the paper towel lined plastic wrapper and toss it in the fridge. You’re done!

Wrap your head

Cookin' again!

No, you haven't been abandoned! But between winter, some traveling, and eating a lot of our old favorites (which are already posted!), February managed to evaporate. Hopefully, the rate of new postings will increase with the approach of Spring!